Analysis Of The Most Complex Watches In The Second Asia Haute Horlogerie Show

Complex functions are just like their lives for the fine watchmaking industry, because this is directly related to the brand’s R & D strength, so major brands are racking their brains to develop various complex functions, hoping to be able to Some breakthroughs, but in the face of strong opponents such as Lin, it is not easy to make a breakthrough. And this exhibition tells us that there is no limit to complexity.

  If you want to say that the most complicated watch at this exhibition must be a non-Vacheron Constantin Maître Cabinotier Astronomica watch, we still remember the wrist launched to celebrate the 250 This watch for the 260th anniversary has once again experienced the most experienced watchmakers once again accepted the severe challenges and created an extremely sophisticated watch with advanced complications. This watch is equipped with The hand-wound 2755-B1 calibre incorporates 15 demanding horological complexities while highlighting astronomical elements. It is an exquisite masterpiece of extraordinary sophistication. This watch has a diameter of 47 mm and a thickness of 19.1 mm.

  This watch has functions such as minute repeater, time equation, tourbillon, perpetual calendar, date, week, month, leap year display, power reserve, sunrise and sunset time display and other functions. In addition to the hour and minute hands, the front and dial edges of the watch are equipped with up to 11 concise and unique complications. Two of the most prominent advanced clock functions are the minute repeater and tourbillon. Other astronomical complex functions include perpetual calendar, time difference display and sunrise and sunset time display.
  The back of this watch is as stunning as the front. Its features include four complex functions and seven practical and interesting display functions: star map, solstice (winter solstice or summer solstice), equinox, star time , Moon age and moon phase, season, and signs of the zodiac. These combinations of astronomical functions are rare in the field of fine watchmaking. This dial for astronomical functions is divided into two layers. The disc in the center of the dial shows a map of the northern hemisphere and the four basic orientations. At the same time, the second layer of dial also provides a series of extremely interesting astronomical functions. A sun-patterned pointer at one end indicates the signs of the zodiac, the seasons, and the day and night equinox corresponding to the current date.

  Montblanc’s ultra-complicated cascade II watch is definitely the most eye-catching watch of Montblanc at this exhibition, because it has a magical deformation mechanism. When we press the handle on the left side of the case, which is similar to the minute repeater, the time to witness the miracle is coming. We see that the dial showing the time and calendar starts to open. The position has also changed to 12-hour cumulative chronograph, and it takes only 5 seconds for an ordinary watch to become a chronograph. Although the function is extremely modern, the movement not only retains the most traditional chronograph structure. The key is to polish it. The watch is equipped with the MB M 67.40 manual winding mechanical movement, which consists of 746 parts, of which 494 parts are used. It is converted with the function of “Iterative Change”. It has an amazing 85 jewel bearings with a vibration frequency of 18,000 times per hour and can provide a power reserve of about 50 hours. The current price of this watch is 270,000 Euros, with a limited edition of 18 pieces.

   Piaget (Earl) This year’s Emperador Coussin hollow diamond automatic winding tourbillon watch, it can be said that once again raised the jewelry setting to a new height, can be described as set in the teeth, showing the brand’s peak in the field of watches and jewelry Accomplished, this watch boldly challenges the technical limit and realizes the unique and exquisite technology in the same type of watch; the movement is set with square diamonds and the floating tourbillon is cleverly configured on the ultra-thin design. This watch is equipped with an ultra-thin self-winding tourbillon movement 1270D. Both sides of the movement are set with diamonds.
  The manufacturing process of this 1270D movement is full of various challenges. In addition to the above-mentioned diamond-setting techniques, diamonds are paved on both sides of the bridge and the motherboard, creating a precedent for Piaget. The function components on the front and back of the movement are set with a total of 71 baguette-cut diamonds (about 1.1 carats) and 561 round diamonds (about 1.9 carats). These diamonds also show three different gem inlays. Technology, including rail setting for inlaying rectangular cut diamonds, grain setting and round-grain setting for round diamonds, making the movement unique Artistic crystallization.
   To say that the most difficult place to set is that Piaget set diamonds on the edge of the bridge, which is only a few centimeters. This is an extremely exquisite workmanship. Only the most experienced craftsmen of the time can use stacking inlays. Technology is complete. Piaget has pushed the technological limit even further, and some of the screws of the 1270D movement are also inlaid with diamonds. All the diamond-set screws must be specially designed to remain firm after setting the diamonds. This shows the deep skill of Piaget!

  Van Cleef & Arpels’ new dazzling meteor shower poetic complication watch has once again widened our eyes. This watch uses a 12-point triangular time scale to trigger a meteor shower, deducing changes every hour. Each meteor shower is presented on the dial with a different pattern and has a unique name. Driven by the four seasons movement, it rotates once a year, so that we can make beautiful wishes all year round! The movement of this watch is manually wound. It is equipped with an Agenhor module specially developed by Van Cleef & Arpels. The watch has a ‘wish meter’ on the back. After the user sets the date, the white or blue hands will point gradually. In the current month, the display window at 6 o’clock shows the average number of meteors at this time of the year in a graph. Those who like to make a wish to the meteor can naturally see the opportunity and express their wishes to the sky.

  There is no suspense, the series promoted by Audemars Piguet in this edition of the exhibition is still the Royal Oak series, and this Royal Oak offshore automatic tourbillon chronograph will undoubtedly attract the attention of everyone. First of all, this watch uses Audemars Piguet’s unique forged carbon material, which is extremely lightweight and has beautiful patterns. Secondly, the bezel is made of black ceramic, with a brushed texture like metal. The most special is the automatic mechanism of this watch. The oscillating weight is located in the bezel on the dial. It is an automatic ring that can be wound in both directions, which not only improves the winding efficiency, but also makes the watch perfect!

  Roger Dubuis’s heaviest watch this time is this Hommage series minute repeat tourbillon automatic winding watch. Due to the unique double miniature rotor structure, the minute repeat structure is located on the table. The front of the section can be said to be a unique questionnaire. Different from the past, this watch uses a specially designed rectangular gong instead of a general circular gong, combining new mechanical engineering and novel materials to improve the sound quality of the time signal. As far as the auditory effect is concerned, the research and development of the centrifugal force percussion dissipator guarantees the best stability and speed of the chime sound, and it emits slender, clear and pleasant notes without any noise.

  According to Mr. Gregory Bruttin, the director of R & D and watchmaking department: This technical characteristic is like a skater, spreading his hands to produce a wider axis of rotation and slowly turning. When he tightens his arms close to the body, he has a smaller , You can rotate it quickly and dazzlingly. In addition, the RD104 movement equipped in this watch is fully polished in accordance with the strict standards of the Geneva Seal. In addition, the sapphire crystal lens on the case back is engraved with the signature of Mr. Roger Dubuis in rose gold. This limited edition of 20 pieces celebrates the 20th anniversary of Roger Dubuis Watch Factory. It confirms once again that the watchmaker’s unique and unique view has made the brand perfectly create the past, present and future. Through outstanding and outstanding models The work interprets the eternal charm of ‘extraordinary machinery’.

  Richard Mille’s watches have always been known for their uniqueness. Among the many models, only RM 056 sapphire crystal tourbillon two-second chronograph chronograph, the case of this watch The movement and plywood are all made of sapphire crystal. This means that if you want to make this watch scratch, unless you are surrounded by diamonds, in addition, this watch also applies mechanical building structure and steel cable suspension movement design. Integrating a suspended movement into a transparent world created by a sapphire crystal can be said to unveil a piece of gravity-free and transparent cold space for the top clocks.

  In terms of movement, this watch has specially developed a single braided steel cable with a diameter of only 0.35 mm. The tourbillon movement made of grade 5 titanium alloy is suspended in the center of the sapphire crystal case. The steel cable runs through the transparent space and is tightened and fixed by 4 pulleys at the corner of the movement and 6 pulleys at the periphery of the movement. The tensioning force of the cable is controlled by the tensioner at 9 o’clock. The entire cable device is connected to the tension indicator at 12 o’clock, so the wearer can easily check the tension of the cable to confirm that it just meets the timing performance requirements. It is an ergonomic masterpiece. !!
  Although so many ultra-complicated watches are impossible for most people, this does not affect us to appreciate them. I think this is the charm of high-level complex watches! (Text / picture watch house Mao Zhuang)